overheard

Aug. 11th, 2008 07:44 pm
devi: (thegap)
[personal profile] devi
Last night in the Hobo Hideout I managed to fall asleep though there was a room party going on nearby with chatter and terrible sub-sub-ambient, sub-Chillout-Moods music. What did wake me up was the man outside my door bellowing "Guys, turn it off and go to bed. I have a fuckin´ busy day tomorrow."

It´s the real backpacker hostel deal. Poky with shared bathrooms and dog-eared posters for local activities. But not what I hoped for, lots of other travellers hanging out in the common room. I was on my own in Lima and Pucallpa, intimidated by the chaos of the places and the sense of danger into posher hotels where you don´t meet people, and now that I´ve found my feet I want to talk to someone who´s having the same experiences as me. But very few seem to be on the move at the moment. I´m spending a lot of time at the Yellow Rose, the travellers´ hangout down the street from my hostel, slouching in their comfy chairs and drinking beer in the heat of the day, but it´s hard to break into people´s twos and threes and randomly say hi.

I was there earlier, having breakfast and watching a gecko clambering around on the wall, when I saw a mini-play unfold. Two older white guys were sitting near me. One with a white buzz-cut and jungle shorts and a petulant, slightly squeaky voice; the other big and paunchy with jowls and mournful John Kerry eyebrows. The squeaky one really didn´t like Bill Grimes, who is mentioned in the guidebook as someone who runs good jungle cruises. He kept saying "in this business..." so I figured he was a rival. He monologued for easily 20 minutes about all the things Bill does wrong on his boats and at his wildlife lodge. What happens if you´re showing someone the tame anaconda, it gets skittish and you´re sued for negligence? What happens if one of the monkeys bites someone and they have to get a rabies shot? What happens if your group meet a jaguar and you haven´t got a pistol? With the shared bathroom on the boat, what if someone needs to take a screamin´ shit? The word 'irresponsible' featured a lot. He got squeakier and squeakier as he went on and on. I wondered what Bill had done to him, what petty infighting went on in the clique of macho jungle men, and reflected that he wasn´t putting me off doing one of the tours at all, considering the amount of bias wafting off his words. The other guy fidgeted and sighed, repeatedly let his eyes glaze over and then caught himself, and now and then said something equivocal which suggested he thought Squeaky was overstating matters. Quite suddenly Squeaky stood up to go. "You have a good day," said the other guy. "I will," Squeaky said emphatically. I wondered. He appeared to be the sort of person who liked to exist in a state of outrage, so it seemed unlikely.

After various men engaging me in conversation in netcafes, I have discovered that the moment when a conversation becomes creepy is when they ask where your hotel is. Saying "So you don´t want friends?" when you refuse to tell them, then saying they want to come to your hotel because their cousin works for the company you´re booked on a tour with and they want you to deliver a special letter, does not make it better and is a good time to go and do something else. This is irritating when you´re in the middle of a post.

But unlike Squeaky I do not live in a state of irritation. I love it here. And though I thought it was just a pre-storm thing, it turns out the birds flock at dusk every day, presumably to catch insects. Which is cool.

Date: 2008-08-12 05:58 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] cartographer.livejournal.com
I recognise that one :-) When travelling I find that I like to meet people to hang out with every two to three days, and that I -do- find people every two to three days, but it's frustrating when you're ready to go and the universe starts its counter a couple of days late.

Date: 2008-08-13 09:49 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] bluedevi.livejournal.com
[livejournal.com profile] gnimmel once did a wonderful graph plotting 'desire to be social' and 'number of social events happening'. The two lines were like two sine waves, where one was always at its peak when the other was a trough...

Date: 2008-08-12 07:08 am (UTC)
juliet: (Default)
From: [personal profile] juliet
I had the no-people problem in India - was there just after the India/Pakistan kerfuffle & the FO had only recently lifted its advice against travelling over there. People showed up intermittently anyway, & this did mean that when they did, all parties concerned were v keen to converse :) (I also spoke more to random local people.)

Do the breaking in as an experiment? (Just to see how people react... which is always interesting.) Ideally when you have something else that you can claim the need to do in 5-10 minutes so you can escape if it all goes horribly wrong.

Hate hate hate the creepy men thing.

Date: 2008-08-13 09:46 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] bluedevi.livejournal.com
The having 'something else to do' = excellent advice. And yes, I am talking to locals too, which is great.

Travelling alone is fantastic in general, I´m finding. It forces you out of yourself.

Date: 2008-08-17 12:37 pm (UTC)
juliet: (round the world)
From: [personal profile] juliet
It does lots of things, IME. It forces you out of yourself, but it also frees you up to do whatever you fancy at a particular time; it frees you from a lot of expectations (although may place some others on you). It means you can choose the level of sociability you want. And (without getting all hippy about it) I find it to be self-revealing, as well.

And it's top fun :-)

self-revealing, yes

Date: 2008-08-19 04:09 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] bluedevi.livejournal.com
I am developing a silly theory about travel as altered state of consciousness :)

Date: 2008-08-12 10:20 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] secretrebel.livejournal.com
I haven't posted any comments to your adventures until now but I wanted to say I have been reading them. I was worried about the missing rucksack and it's sad it hasn't been recovered but good that you have gleaned something positive and liberating from its loss. I confess, your travels do sound terrifying to me but I'm glad you're having a good time and I enjoy reading about them from the comfort of my whirly chair.

Date: 2008-08-13 09:52 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] bluedevi.livejournal.com
Nice to know you´re reading, and whirly chair sounds really nice right now - I´m sitting on a nasty plastic one and about to go and have a cold shower :)

Date: 2008-08-12 10:36 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] carbonunit.livejournal.com
Now I would be looking up Bill Grimes and going on one of his cruises. That way adventure lies!

Date: 2008-08-12 03:37 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] bluedevi.livejournal.com
I know! Jaguars, monkeys, anacondas... I´m there :)

Date: 2008-08-26 12:55 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] verlaine.livejournal.com
It can't hurt Bill Grimes at all that he has a name straight outta Dickens, can it?

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